Our Kids Have No Choice But to Love to Fly

We were boarding our flight from Abu Dhabi to Johannesburg when Ava saw this HSBC add and, with a very troubled look said, “Why does that poor cow have a map on him?” I don’t know what made me more proud – the fact that she was was concerned for the animal’s welfare or that she recognized a world map.

We have been looking at a lot of maps lately and, thanks in part to Dora the Explorer, the kids are eager to know where they are heading in relation to where we have been. Our 22 hour journey from Athens to Windhoek turned out to be a non-event. The kids slept on all three flights. The only glitch was the nosebleed Kayan got on the flight to Johannesburg.

Despite this, when we finally got into our beds in Windhoek, a disappointed Kayan asked, “Why no more planes?” The kids have boarded 19 flights since we left New York in November. Perhaps flying has become so natural that they see it as a non event. Or perhaps, since we give them lollipops to calm ear pressure, they see flying as a treat. Kayan begged for his own backpack so that he could have something to put on the security belt. Ava likes to hand over each passport when we fill out immigration forms and has a funny fetish of checking out airport bathrooms. Whatever the reason, we’re lucky to have happy fliers for all the journeys we have left to take.

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Do We Get Tired of Traveling?

We’re off on safari! I am not sure what kind of internet connection we will have, so I have set up a few posts to go live while we are away. These posts answer questions that friends and readers have asked about our journey. We’ll have updates from Namibia soon.

We’re often asked if we get tired of traveling. Isn’t it exhausting to manage two little kids? Aren’t we tired of living out of our bags?

Traveling with young children forces us to be slow. We are under no delusions that we are going to see every sight, climb every mountain and enjoy every meal. What’s great about traveling with the kids is that, by traveling slow, we really absorb what we are doing. We don’t travel as tourists, we travel as tempats – temporary expats. It works out well for the entire family. Sandeep and I aren’t the sightseeing type of tourists. We’d much rather spend the days getting lost in the backgrounds of a city than in it’s famous museums. Our preference, combined with the luxury of time, makes it easier to settle in to local neighborhoods and take life slowly.

What do we do to live tempat lives? We find local coffee shops that provide us with a sense of community. Our favorite thus far has been Mavra in IstanbulWe live and shop where the locals do. We rent apartments wherever we go and frequent grocery stores and markets. This helps us understand local food sourcing, preparation and consumption. I was not shy in Thailand to grill vendors about their strange wares at Thanin market. I have yet to poison the family with my cooking.

We take public transportation wherever available. It’s slower than a taxi, but it forces us to ride along with locals and possibly make friends along the way. The 101 in Penang was our lifeline around the island. The one place where we took taxis over public transportation was Athens, as we were warned about crime on the Metro.

We make friends at playgrounds. Sandeep and I are more than happy to exploit the kids in order to make local friends. Playgrounds, such as this on in the shadows of the twin towers in Kuala Lumpur, are a great place to meet other parents also hungry for adult conversation.

We walk around a lot. Rather than rushing to places, we walk (sometimes stumble, crawl, trot, hop, skip, shuffle) around as much as possible. Ava and Kayan literally stop to smell all the flowers but, after some frustration at our glacial pace, Sandeep and I realize that is part of the journey.

Some days we do nothing. We eat in, the kids paint and we surf the net. If we were going on short vacation with the kids, we would likely ramp up our travel pace. The benefit of being on extended travel means that it feels natural to take life slowly and on occasion do nothing.

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A Journey We Are Not Excited About

We’re off on safari! I am not sure what kind of internet connection we will have, so I have set up a few posts to go live while we are away. These posts answer questions that friends and readers have asked about our journey. We’ll have updates from Namibia soon.

Isn’t it hard to fly with two kids?

I am sure it could be if the kids don’t like to fly. It has been a month since we have been on a plane and the kids are getting anxious. Every time Kayan sees a plane he asks, “Why we no go plane?” Ava says she wants to know which plane is taking us to Namibia. As you read this, the kids are getting what they wished for. We are on our longest journey so far. Getting from Athens to Windhoek, Namibia is an overnight affair that involves three flights over 6,648 miles.

We have left Athens on a four and a half hour flight to Abu Dhabi. There we hope to make our two hour connection and board an eight and a half hour flight to Johannesburg. We arrive in Johannesburg at the crack of dawn and cool our heels for five hours before boarding our final flight, a two hour stretch to Windhoek.

The kids have been great flying companions. We find endless ways to amuse ourselves at airports.

They sleep a lot. When awake, they have a voracious appetite for airline food. They like the freedom of channel surfing on their personal TVs and enjoy cruising the aisles in search of bored children. However, we have yet to brave a twenty two hour journey with them. I wrote about 7 Tips for Flying with Young Kids for Huffington Post. However, despite all the flights we have taken thus far, somehow this one seems intimidating. We’ll report back from Africa.

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Our Visit Around Athens

Even  though we never made it to the Parthenon, we did a lot during our few days in Athens. We missed our Vouliagmeni sunsets so headed up to the highest point in Athens, Lykavittos Hill, located a few blocks from our apartment in Kolonaki, and watched the Parthenon welcome the night from afar (again).

The hill has a tiny church, Agios George, that overlooks the city.

In general, we have been very surprised by the quiet air in Athens. The largest crowd we saw was during our bike ride. Despite walking all over the city, we have yet to see a single protest. What we have noticed is that many stores are shut down, barricaded or have For Rent signs plastered on them. We have also seen anarchy graffiti everywhere. This is no doubt due to the Greek crisis. Despite this, the one place a visitor can count on finding company is a coffee house. No matter the time of day, there are always people sipping espresso, drinking frappes and reading papers. Notice how everyone is sitting against the wall so that they can do their share of people watching.

The city’s museums are working on reduced schedules as they can no longer afford to keep their staff full time. One thing that continues is the hourly changing of the guards at the parliament building.

Church also goes on and we paid a visit to Agios Dionnysios, dedicated to the first bishop of Athens. Kayan took church music as his cue to sing Katy Perry’s California Girls at the top of his lungs. Just when he belted out, “Daisy Dukes, bikinis on top,” we cowered out.

Athens is going through a hard time. People told us to be careful where we walked, watch our stuff and not to stay out late in unknown areas. Crime has been an issue since the Olympics but, in the wake of the crisis, has escalated. Despite the caution and quiet atmosphere, we enjoyed Athens. We also feel oddly good that we did our part to stimulate the Greek economy.  Our average meal in Greece has been 30 Euros ($37), far higher than any other country we have visited on our trip, including our standard spots in New York City. The three Luke girls leave happy.

And the three Luke boys are ready to protect us in the wilds of Namibia.

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The Faces of the Parthenon in Athens

The Parthenon, the roughly 2,500 year old temple dedicated to the Greek Goddess Athena, dominates the Athens skyline from atop the Acropolis. The Acropolis has done duty as a church and later a mosque under Ottoman rule. The Ottomans used the structure to store ammunition, which ended up exploding a significant portion of the structure. The Parthenon has also sustained its share of earthquakes. Despite all of this, it stands firmly over sprawling Athens. It feels as if we have spent our days in Athens circling the temple. Every time we see it, we feel a different side of its personality.

It showed us hope at 1AM when we were lost on our cycles.

It seems elusive when we see it down the street of our apartment in Kolonaki.

From the foot of the Acropolis it is domineering.

We have yet to actually visit the Parthenon. Whenever Ava sees it she says, “Look, the building without a roof again.” There are several cranes scattered around the grounds working on restoration projects. “Maybe we should come back after they’ve fixed it.” With that rationalization we may just wait until we visit Greece next to see it’s most popular structure.

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Free Day of Midnight Cycling Around Athens

Where possible, Sandeep and I enjoy participating in organized sporting events. Sandeep ran a 12k in Kuala Lumpur and we both did a 5k in Goa. These events take us through locations we wouldn’t see on our own and give us a chance to get social with locals.

Last night we participated in Free Day, a weekly cycling event that takes place around Athens every Friday. The event started out with a few friends that thought cycling around the city would be a good way to end the week. Their friends joined and they created a Facebook page. Now the event can attract up to 5,000 riders on a busy weekend. We couldn’t find much information about the event in English. All we knew was that, at 9:30, the group gathers at a location disclosed the night before and cycles until about 3 the morning. It sounded like a great way to be social, get some exercise and explore. Somehow we had imagined a pub crawl-like event, except on bikes. We were off.

We rented a bike from Athens by Bike, and met several hundred other riders at our designated point in Thesseion. People seemed relaxed. The average age was around ours, most riders were in casual gear and the majority had mountain bikes. A few riders had stereos blasting Black Eyed Peas and U2. It was a fun vibe. The most entertainment came from watching the riders spewing animated Greek profanity at every motorist that dared to block our way. The first two hours took us through the streets of the city and then up a grueling (for me) gradual incline to the base of a mountain.

The crowd started thinning and we realized we were trailing the pack. Fellow riders told us the incline from then on was steep and would last about an hour. I could tell Sandeep was excited to do it, but also knew that if I put the little energy I had left into the climb I may not have the ability to make it back home (the kids were in the hands of a capable babysitter in case you’re wondering).

We decided to turn back and brave our way home without the other riders. You may have already read what we’ve said about Greek drivers. We were not to excited at the thought of being at their mercy on highway roads at in the middle of the night. The few lone people we asked for directions looked at us as if we were crazy. They’d say, “City center? Too far!” as they gestured hopelessly in some general direction. We didn’t look like stupid tourists to them. We looked like stupid people. It wasn’t until about 1 AM that we saw the Parthenon in the distance, literally a beacon of light mounted atop the Acropolis. We knew we were heading in the right direction, but still needed to find out way home. As Sandeep dismounted to ask for directions at a large square, he said, “By the way, remember Omonia? That one area of Athens I said we should avoid? The one with open drug dealing and prostitution? This is it.” Great. Just where I want to be at 1:30 on a Saturday morning.

At 2 AM, when we finally were finally back in our neighborhood we made our first intelligent made our first intelligent move of the night. We found a bar around the corner from our apartment and hydrated.

Perhaps we didn’t show our smartest side last night. We should have researched the intensity of the ride more, or at least kept a map with us in the event we needed to turn back. However, Free Day Athens is a great concept. If we lived here we would participate regularly, map in hand of course. It’s a great way to get social and pump up the adrenalin on a Friday night. Despite being out until 3AM, we didn’t wake up with hangovers. Just sore a**es.

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Leaving Our Beach Dreams in Vouliagmeni

We love our beach vacations. When Kayan was only eight weeks old, we packed him up and took the family to the Dominican Republic for a long weekend. Every time we see open water, we dream about living a beach life. We long to wake up to blue waters, eat fresh seafood and live in flip flops. The reality is that, before this journey, we were never able to do this for more than a week at a time. Our month in Vouliagmeni, Greece has been our chance to live our beach life fantasy. When we leave on Friday there will be many things to miss.

We’ll miss the changing colors of the ocean, where we spent hours picking up shells and tormenting starfish.

We’ll miss the brilliant sunsets off our terrace.

We’ll even miss the perfectly manicured streets lined with orange, fig and olive trees.

Our month in Vouliagmeni has been the slowest part of our journey. We have had minimal external stimulus here, which took some adjusting after the excitement of Istanbul. Vouliagmeni programmed us to a leisurely pace of life that we will not experience for a very long time.

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Turkish or Greek Coffee?

We went into Turkey expecting to love Turkish coffee. What we learned is that it’s easy to go wrong with its preparation. Some establishments burn the brew and others are too hasty in its preparation, churning out a watery drink over a grimy base. Good Turkish coffee is robust and smooth, never bitter, have a frothy head and an ever so faint grainy texture. As we spend more time in Istanbul, we understood Turkish coffee and where to score a perfect cup.

Turkey, after Yemen, was one of the first countries to truly adopt a coffee culture. The Ottoman Governor of Yemen introduced the drink back home to Suleiman the Magnificent in 1543. Soon, coffee became integral to Turkish life. Throughout the day, Turkish coffee houses serve the concoction in colorful 3 ounce ceramic glasses. Turkish coffee preparation and consumption is a slow affair, so it naturally leads to a social element as well.

When we came to Greece, we saw what we thought was Turkish coffee. The only recognizable difference is that the Greeks serve it in white porcelain cups.

It turns out that is the only difference. For a long time, Turkish coffee was referred to as Turkish coffee even in Greece. However, when Turkey invaded Cyprus in 1974, the irate Greek government was against the use of  Turkish terms. Greek coffee was born. Coffee becomes Turkish, or Greek, coffee due to its preparation, not bean variety. Most coffee is made by running hot water or steam through ground beans. Turkish coffee uses superfine grounds to avoid the filtering process. Grounds are essentially boiled and dissolved into the brew. Beware, though, not all the grounds disappear, leaving a thick base. The solution for the inedible leftovers? Fortune telling.

If you want to try your hand at Turkish, I mean Greek, coffee, you can follow the step by step instructions here.

While Greek coffee may be Turkish coffee, the Greeks do have their own unique coffee culture. It is one that revolves around frappe. In the late 1950s, a Greek representative of Nestle improvised a cold brew of coffee, water and ice. After vigorous shaking, it resulted in a super frothy foam. Today, in most parts of Greece, it is more common to see people gathered over frappes than Greek coffee.

The relaxation with which Turkish coffee is enjoyed is not lost on Greek frappes. Unlike a Starbucks pick-up, frappe consumption in Greece is a leisurely affair. The rule of thumb is one sip every ten minutes. Any faster and the barista will be offended. With Greek waters as the setting, why would you hurry anyway?

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Reflecting on Memorial Day From Greece

Despite being citizens of a country that has been at war for over a decade, we embarrassingly never really stopped to think of what the Memorial Day weekend truly signifies. For our family, it signaled the start of summer, quieter weekends in Manhattan and a cue to dust off our bikes.

Over the past seven months, in almost every country we have been, we have seen reminders of war and of those that have given their lives during service or lost their lives caught in the middle. When we were in India we also learned more about the roles our family has played in war and defense.

Sandeep’s grandfather was in the Indian Army and served in places such as Penang and Burma. In his honor, we visited the Penang War Museum. Our starkest learning was that living and dining quarters were divided on nationality. The British had real bathrooms and things got progressively worse the further east or south one hailed.

We also stopped by the World War II Cemetery outside Yangon, close to where Sandeep’s grandfather almost lost his life fleeing air raids towards the end of the war. We read the names of his battalion members who had fallen that day.

My grandfather retired as Commodore of the Indian Navy. In his earlier years he captained mine sweeping expeditions. After his formal retirement, he served as the naval point for RAW, India’s external intelligence agency.

Both our grandfathers participated in wars though luckily both lived well past their duties. If they were alive, would they have war lessons to impart on their great-grandchildren? Being defenders and ultimately men of peace, we’d like to think they would support us in how we are raising our children to promote peace.

We are trying to raise kids who make every effort to understand other people’s points of view. It’s hard enough to understand people when they speak the same language and follow the same customs. Try understanding someone when they speak a foreign tongue and act in seemingly strange ways. We want Ava and Kayan to be comfortable in these situations. Our babysitter in Thailand spoke no English and our babysitter in Greece speaks only Greek. The kids have been to pre-school in India where their classmates only spoke Malayalam. Not only did the kids keep an open mind and figure out a way to find friendships in these situations, they actually form bonds that last after the goodbyes.

We are also trying to raise kids who don’t pass judgement on nationality, religion or orientation. We have successfully confused our kids into not being able to answer the question “Where are you from?” When asked this the other day, Ava answered, “Vouliagmeni“. We’re thrilled. It shouldn’t matter where you are from. Our geographical boundaries are increasingly porous, our environment interlinked and our social, political and economic decisions have contagion effects that Ava and Kayan’s great-grandfathers never experienced.

We never lose wonder at watching our kids adapt to and navigate our world. The very fact that we, as parents, think that personal differences are something to be acknowledged and actively respected tells me that we are more judgmental than our children. Our kids, being at an age when they are so young and so innocent, just accept differences. Any questions are out of curiosity and not judgement. The reality of age is that these traits will not last forever. However, as the world gets closer, hopefully Ava and Kayan’s generation is encouraged to be more comfortable with personal differences than the generations before. It is an idealistic view but what better day to have this hope than today.

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Company on a Private Greek Beach

Our social life has been somewhat anticlimactic after Istanbul, where it seemed we met up with people from all phases of our lives. For over two weeks in Greece, Sandeep and I have only had each other for intellectual English conversation. We could have made more friends if we tried harder. However, between Vouliagmeni’s weekend-only population and our inclination to hang out on the beach most days, we just haven’t made the connections we did in other places.

Luckily my cousin, Keri, who was one of our Istanbul guests, came to Greece for Ava’s birthday. She missed the actual birthday by a day so we had no choice but to celebrate again.

This time we upped the stakes on our beach location. Not just any one of the gorgeous Greek beaches around Vouliagmeni would do. We wanted to scout out a private beach. The west coast of Attica has a road that hugs the coast like a smooth black ribbon laid against the turquoise waters. Most Athenians stay to this side of the peninsula given the easy access. That was all the excuse we needed to rent a car and check out the east coast.

It turns out there is a reason people don’t flock to the east coast beaches. They are hard to find and harder to reach. We had to turn off the highway and brave small gravel roads in hopes of finding a sandy stretch. Sandeep’s resilient driving, my gut driven navigation skills and Keri’s ability to entertain the kids in the back seat proved to be a winning combination. Our private beach came complete with a backdrop of a white and blue church perched over the water.

The combination of company and privacy made this one of our favorite days in Greece. This starfish that Kayan found probably could have done without the company though.

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