Category Archives: Turkey

April 7, 2012 · 1:39 pm

Saffron Scented Safranbolu

I’ve never been a big fan of saffron. I think its soapy taste destroys dishes. When we decided to spend two nights in the Black Sea town of Safranbolu, it was for the town’s laid back feel and architecture, not because it has been a centuries old center for saffron cultivation and trading.

UNESCO put its World Heritage Center stamp on Safranbolu for its preservation of traditional Ottoman architecture and culture. As an important caravan station on the East-West trade route, Safranbolu prospered and set a high bar for Ottoman style. We spent an entire day meandering the narrow streets, admiring the old houses, mosques, and hammam, while sipping tea and snacking on local pastries.

Even though we didn’t come for the saffron, we couldn’t escape it. Saffron is sold everywhere and in every form in the alleys of Safranbolu. There’s saffron Turkish delight, which Sandeep’s brother bought along with other exotic flavors such as rose and pistachio.

Saffron is supposed to be very good for hair and skin and there is every variety of beauty product on sale, from saffron oil to saffron soap.

Naturally, there is saffron itself, which is used in a variety of savory and sweet dishes throughout Asia, the Middle East and Europe. We weren’t here for the saffron but it was hard not to participate in the saffron exuberance. Dinner led to a turning point. We went to Kadioglu Sehzade Sofrasi, a restaurant specializing in local cuisine and ordered one of almost everything on the menu. Our dessert options were baklava or saffron pudding. Not ones to miss dessert, we caved in for the pudding. According to the people of Safranbolu, one has not lived until trying the town’s safranli zerde. I figured if anything changed my opinion on saffron, this would be it.

Sadly, to me, it still tasted like a spoonful of soap, albeit with a healthy dose of sugar. The kids didn’t much care for it either and, I suppose rather offensively, we left most if the dish untouched. While we weren’t saffron converts, we did leave Safranbolu with a lot of saffron knowledge.

– Saffron threads are the stigma of the purple saffron crocus flower. These are tediously handpicked and air dried.

– Like diamonds, saffron have grades. The grades are based on color, taste and fragrance.

– At $ 100,000 a kilogram, the spot price of saffron from Safranbolu is double that of gold. A pinch of saffron will take you further than a few gold flakes, though.

– Saffron has supposed medicinal functions including serving as an anti-depressant and immune system modulator.

We try to keep open minds when we travel, but sometimes prejudices and tastes, like my dislike for saffron, can get in the way. I was determined to avoid the spice and instead ended up fascinated by all the hype. That’s the great thing about travel, it forces you to experience new things, even if you don’t always end up loving them.

If you are a saffron fan, try out this recipe for safranli zerde.

1/4 cup short grain rice, soaked and drained
6 cups water
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon saffron soaked in a little warm water
Thickening agent, such as 3 tablespoons dissolved cornstarch

Boil the rice with half the water until just done. Drain. Boil the sugar with the remaining water. Turn down the heat to a simmer and add the rice, saffron and saffron water, and thickening agent. Stir just until it starts to bubble. Dish out into serving bowls and chill in the fridge. Serve cold.

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April 6, 2012 · 2:32 pm

Career Interview: Blacksmith in Safranbolu

Ever thought of a career switch? We’ve met many professionals on this trip that we were never be exposed to at home. Talking to these people has given us interesting perspectives on their trade and local culture. I thought we’d start sharing some of these conversations.

The Turkish town of Safranbolu has long been known as an artisan center, particularly for its leather shoes, textiles, wooden artifacts and metalwork. We meandered around the various workshops and stores and were treated to a (mostly) English speaking conversation with Kazim Madenoglu, a blacksmith.

Diya: How did you get into working with metal?

Kazim: My father and my father’s father owned these workshops. I learnt from them. I have three girls now, and this is a man’s work. No one wants to learn the trade. Once I go, all of this will be sold for nothing and the stores will close down.

Diya: Tell us something about your profession that is unique.

Kazim: See these door knockers? No two are the same and each has a different sound. Traditional Ottoman houses have two knockers, a large one used by men to alert the women inside to hide, and a small one used by women to tell the men inside to disappear.

Diya: How does one become successful in this line of work?

Kazim: You have to have my wife. I make everything but only she knows how to sell anything.

Diya: What do you like about Safranbolu?

Kazim: I have lived here all my life so I like everything. It is a small town. That’s good.

Every country we have visited has had examples of artisan industries dying out. As our world modernizes, intricate labor gets replaced by more efficient machinery and trades that were passed on through generations become at risk of extinction. Kazim is just over 40 and has many years left to practice his trade. Unfortunately, less people are buying his artifacts. Door knockers are less used in the traditional sense and are now objects of decoration for the passing tourist. For the indefinite future, all of Kazim’s heart and knowledge will be poured into his workshop. In front of Kazim’s store is a sign in Turkish. He makes it a point to show it to us. The translation is “By the time the iron becomes a griddle, the coal will have turned to ash. By the time one finally comes to his senses, his life will have passed him by in a flash.”

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April 5, 2012 · 2:17 pm

Living in Caves in Cappadocia

We spent three nights in a cave. We’ve had some unique accommodation during our trip, but sleeping in the caves of Cappadocia certainly tops the list so far. The area around Cappadocia is full of cave like sleeping options, be them underground, in mountainsides or in one of the thousands of ‘fairy chimneys’ that bubble up from the earth. These conical structures are what characterizes the topography of Cappadocia and make it one of the most sought after tourist destinations in Turkey. They were created over millions of years when consolidated volcanic ash was exposed due to continuous erosion.

The area has been inhabited for over four thousand years and reinvented by its many settlers. Between the ancient Hittite, Persian, Arab, Byzantine, Ottoman and Christian history, Cappadocia seems to be a place lost in time. Its landscape also gives it the illusion of being lost in space. We have not been on the moon (yet), but we’d imagine that it looks something like Cappadocia.

Over the past twenty years, Cappadocia’s most recent reinvention has been around the tourism industry. The fairy chimneys serve as homes as well as hotels, restaurants, hammans (bath houses), and stores. Towns, such as our temporary home of Goreme, have been built around the structures, to the point where it’s hard to tell where one chimney ends and a man made structure begins.

In addition to the bizarre landscape, the sense of spirituality left an impression on us. Up until a few hundred years ago, this area served to shelter Christians hiding from religious persecution. It was also in this region that Rumi and his resulting whirling dervishes spread their philosophy. Today, one can hear the frequent Muslim calls to prayer while visiting one of the many centuries old underground churches or monasteries. It all reminds us how far we have come – in many parts of the world at least – on religious tolerance. Most of us have the luxury of choosing what faith, if any, to follow. And with that, living in a cave can be a choice too.

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April 4, 2012 · 3:55 pm

The Hittites Surprise Us in Mazi

In these days of guide books, travel websites, blogs and opinions galore, there are few travel experiences that catch us completely off guard. Once in a while there is an exception, such as our recent experience underneath the town of Mazi in Cappadocia.

As early as 1800 B.C., the Hittites built an elaborate system of underground caves and tunnels around Cappadocia. These cities were subsequently settled and expanded by Persians and Romans. Most recently they served as refuges for Christians, who were able to continue their faith in underground hiding from Persian and Arab rule.

We were warned that the tour crowds can make the known underground cities claustrophobic. Not wanting to give up on the experience, we asked our hotel owner whether we could see a less visited location. He suggested trying the newly excavated underground cities beneath the town of Mazi.

We almost missed Mazi, a town of just about 1,000. As we slowed the car, men leaving the town mosque after the mid day prayer gathered around to study us. We must have looked thoroughly confused because a burly man came up and introduced himself as the excavator, Issa.

Issa was extremely friendly, as most Turkish have been, particularly after noticing we have two kids in tow. He invited us for Turkish coffee inside what looked like a boarded up construction area. It all seemed rather suspicious, but the town was so unassuming that we figured we’d just go with the flow and see where things took us.

Issa and his crew have only excavated a small portion of Mazi and there is a lot that they still do not know about its inhabitants. What we do know is that thousands of years ago, these people had an advanced system of communicating, managing livestock and even mulling wine.  They had clay ovens that cooked their food and heated their homes, as well as and separate areas for sleeping, bathing and cooking. They managed to build cities that stretched five stories underground and two above, the ancient versions of our skyscrapers. Their architecture was complete with air vents, escape routes, and guillotines for the unwelcome and unexpected intruder.

We learnt that the Hittites had an elaborate hierarchical system and, it this conference room, the king entered through the big doorway, while his court bowed down to make it through the shorter entry.

The scale and sophistication of these cities given their age is unlike anything that we have ever experienced. Our appreciation was all the greater because we were treated to an intimate preview of the area, which few other tourists have seen. Next year, Mazi will formally open up to tourists. The dirt lot where Issa hosted us over coffee will be a ticket area. Visitors will get to see the underground cities beneath Mazi, but they won’t be treated to Issa’s hospitality and infinite patience. For now, Issa wants to share what he has already found with others and asked for our help to make a welcome sign.

We were Issa’s only visitors for that day. While we most definitely had an experience off the tourist route, it seemed somewhat ironic that by making the sign for Issa we played a role in putting Mazi on the tourist circuit for the rest of 2012.

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April 3, 2012 · 1:36 pm

East or West in Turkey?

We were driving from Ankara to Cappadocia in Turkey. Ava and Kayan had been passed out for the two hours when Ava opened her eyes and exclaimed, “Look Kayan, it looks like New York!” When we asked why, her reply was, “The sky is blue and the clouds aren’t moving.”

We would have thought it was the snowy terrain, particularly after five months around Asia that would have reminded her of New York. Either way, we too felt the change in scenery, culture and weather after arriving in Turkey. Had we left the emerging world for the developed? Straddling both Europe and Asia, Turkey has a mixed personality. It’s a little bit East and a little bit West. It echoes ancient civilizations and empires yet boasts modern buildings and highways. Our first culture shock upon landing here was the lack of paperwork. After bureaucracy intensive Asia, it was very strange to get a Turkish visa (required upon landing for U.S. Citizens) and go through immigration and customs without filling up a single form. Good thing too, since the only writing instruments we had were color pencils. The entire process was very efficient and very impersonal. No eye contact required. It was a drastic departure from Asia, where we could barely cross the street without someone engaging us in conversation. Then, as if proving that she had different personalities, Turkey shocked us again. Upon exiting customs, a man with a big smile greeted us with a “Welcome to Turkey!” and handed each of the kids balloons boasting the Turkish flag and lollipops. Now that would never happen in New York.

The most glaring similarity to New York has been the prices. Our rental car for a week is about $1,000. Lunch at a roadside rest stop was $35, a far cry from our $1 dishes in Chiang Mai. East or West, ancient or modern, it’s all debatable. What we do know is that Turkey is opening up a whole new area of the world for us to explore. We’ve never seen New York, London, Istanbul and Baghdad so cozy together.

We’re planning to spend several weeks exploring Turkey and some of the caucuses. Perhaps by then we ‘ll know where this board is urging us to go.

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